Showing posts with label Westlawn. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Westlawn. Show all posts

Wednesday, 12 October 2016

Wheel of a deal

That Tug Concept

I haven't posted in a while primarily because that 15 foot tug took my fancy so I decided to work it up to a complete design. I haven't finished it yet but I wanted to talk about propulsion, which is part of boat design, and the Kitchen Rudder.

The Kitchen rudder is the familiar name for "Kitchen's Patent Reversing Rudders", a combination rudder and directional propulsion delivery system for relatively slow speed displacement boats which was invented in the early 20th century by John G.A.Kitchen of Lancashire, England. It turns the rudder into a directional thruster, and allows the engine to maintain constant revolutions and direction of drive shaft rotation while altering thrust by use of a control which directs thrust forward or aft. Only the rudder pivots; the propeller itself is on a fixed shaft and does not. (Wikipedia)

Because we're dealing with a tug, thrust and torque are important. The Kitchen rudder allows the engine to be run at maximum torque constantly and the thrust to be maximized. So this design utilizes a 23hp Honda horizontal shaft engine which develops maximum torque at 2500 RPM. The question is - how big a wheel?

There are a number of ways to calculate this all of which contain some guess work, none is truly scientific.

I propose working backwards from hull speed.

Most people think of a propeller as screwing its way through the water and this is a good concept for thinking about pitch but in fact a propeller is a pump and pushes the boat forward by pushing the water aft. And that is the principle behind the Kitchen rudder, it directs the flow of water to not only control speed but direction.

A tug needs thrust, a lot of it, Our hull is a displacement hull 13.8 feet on the waterline, hull speed for such a craft is the square root of 13.8 times 1.34ish which gives about 5 kts. 5Kts is 500 feet per minute, (6000 feet in a nautical mile x 5/60).

Westlawn has prepared curves of speed versus lbs/hp, using those curves determines that our proposed 23hp is about right for this little tug. Using the curves you can determine that the tug requires 1 hp for every 100lbs of displacement for a hull speed of 5kts. Our displacement is approximately 2300lbs divided by 100 is 23.

The next question is the pitch, that's the bit that pushes the water aft, since we don't want to run the engine at top RPM but at the speed that will maximize torque we will use 2500 RPM with a 5 to 1 reduction (500RPM at the shaft) to further maximize torque. Hull speed is 5kts, that works out to 500 feet per minute. So we need to move a foot per RPM so the pitch is 12”.

Now we switch to Dave Gerr's ideas on prop diameter, see chapter 32 of his book, The Nature of Boats. He has prepared a handy nomograph for determining diameter, using that nomograph we find we need a 26” diameter prop. Well that won't work the tug isn't that deep.

So we'll have to work backwards yet again.

The maximum diameter that the little tug can handle is 12”, lets reduce the reduction gearing to 2 to 1 and the RPM to 2400, that's 1200 revolutions at the shaft which gives us a recommend diameter of 16” and a pitch of 5”. But we can only use a 12” prop. So we need to increase the pitch. Dave Gerr says for each inch reduction in diameter pitch must be increased by 2”. (16-12 = 4 x2=8+5 =13) look at that we're back to nearly our 12” pitch so lets go with a square prop 12x12, that will reduce our top speed but we don't care as a tug works a slow speeds anyway. We might even increase the RPM reduction to 3 to 1.

Next time further exposition on the Kitchen rudder.

Saturday, 2 April 2016

Stability One

Staying upright or at least afloat

Here's the real deal on stability in small boats, modern sail boat design http://www.wavetrain.net/boats-a-gear/471-modern-sailboat-design-quantifying-stability. Which is perfect for larger boats with decks and a mostly fixed centre of gravity. But what about small open boats such as the one we've just been working on. Well here is the stability curve for RMSQ&D assuming a fixed centre of gravity.



So degrees of heel are on the X axis and righting arm, in inches, on the y axis. The reason we've only gone to 45 degrees is because beyond that water is coming in over the gunwale and you're going down.

You can see that this boat has a pretty good level of stability up to 45 degrees which is great. However the fact is that you, the person in the boat, has a huge influence on the stability through your ability to move the centre of gravity by moving yourself about.

The question is how did I calculate the data for this curve? It is mind numbing work involving drawing and redrawing waterlines at various degrees of heel and then calculating the centre of buoyancy using stations and Simpson's rule. It is not for the faint of heart. Information on the process is here, www.mi.mun.ca/media/mi/boatrace/files/shipcalculations2.pdf , and here, http://koti.kapsi.fi/hvartial/stab/stab.htm.

The one thing to remember is when you draw in the new waterline at a different angle of heel the displacement must remain the same. With the boat dead level the displacement of station 5 is 109.118 cubic inches, or .7578 cu ft or 48 lbs However when you heel the boat 10 degrees without altering the waterline the displacement is 136.706 cu in, or .9493 cu ft. So we must reduce that displacement by .1915 cu ft, so the waterline must go down but by how much?

If we measure the new waterline it is 3.4 ft, 3.4 into .1915 is .056 ft or .675 inches so we draw in the new waterline .675 inches below the old water line and measure the difference in volume which works out to 28.642 cu in which brings our displaced volume down to 108.064 which is close enough.

We then divide the new waterline into 10 sections, making sure one station line passes through the centre of gravity, giving us the measures for applying Simpsons rule and calculate the transverse centre of bouyancy for station 5.

And then we do it all again for different angles of heel.

Westlawn recommends using the trapezoidal rule instead of Simpson's I don't think there is much difference in the end result.

The thing to remember is that beam is directly proportional to initial stability. But too much beam can create problems with dynamic stability.

We'll talk more about stability next time and about a discovery I have made whilst working on this.

Monday, 21 September 2015

RMS Some More

What's the diff?

In the hull proper there isn't much difference. In the original version the bow transom was curved at the top and also curved athwartships. Working out the build for this little quirk was difficult and it may be beyond the experience of the typical backyard builder so I made the new transom flat.

In the original design the keel was a flat plate with a the keel  attached to it. This came out of a design I was toying with much earlier. Here is a picture of a model of that design. I have long since lost the actual drawings during several moves but the model remains. You can see in the picture of the bottom the space for the keel piece which is a tapered, curved and beveled 2x12. Again probably not the best design for a backyard builder. It took me quite a while to get the model right.




I am a great believer in models. When I did the design for the WoodenBoat competition I made a half model to make sure the design would come together off the paper.


In the next  picture you can see the keel piece.


The change to the keel, which adds a box to the keel was to get the flow right to the new motor which is electric versus gasoline and we'll delve further into that as we develop the design. I don't think that the box keel will be that difficult to build as long as the build method is ply or plank on frame versus stitch and glue.

My instructor at Westlawn commented that this would be a wet boat because the sides are almost up and down at the bow, he obviously hadn't spent any time looking at Phil Bolgers designs for small boats.

Saturday, 19 September 2015

RMS

The First Sampan Skiff

In 1990 I was deeply involved in the Westlawn process and WoodenBoat, an excellent publication, ran a design contest for a 15' boat that would be equally at home being rowed, sailed or running under a small motor. As part of my course work I entered that contest Here is part of the lines drawing, I can't show you it all because it was all done by hand to a scale 1”=1'.



 The quality of the picture is very poor because it is a scan of a photocopy of a 16 year old drawing ( I never throw anything away). However I show it to you so you can see the detail that is required.

I have taken that design and redone it in my CAD programme, changed the hull a little bit and altered the lateral resistance quite a bit. Here are the new lines.


The original design had a fore and aft box seat for rowing with a hinged top into which you could stow the spars, sail, leeboard and oars. It had a small, 2hp, outboard that just cleared the tiller when tipped up, was clear of the keel but did not clear the water. I think you can all see the problems all this would create.

Over the next few weeks we'll look at the changes made and discuss why I made them and work this up to a completed design. I'm doing this is smaller chunks so that I can actually get a post out at more regular intervals.